Well its bean a while since my last update:

Did some CAD work that some of you may have seen:

Dash, that includes an integrated touch screen panel that will connect to a PLC that will monitor batteries and data logg (well thats the theory, will see how it works out) 1 gauge being the speedo, will run the ignition (+ nearly all circuits) via the PLC so the car has neutral (internal power is on but car wont move), Forward and Reverse


A redesigned pedal box: (accelerator and brake only)


A 3d layout of the build (Including front and rear battery packs, Kostov 144V 9" motot)


Made a jig for making the rear trailing arms. 310mm centre to centre which is slightly longer then the standard due to the 5mm increase in diameter of the cortina TE diff to the Escort one. It is made using a 1.6mm plate, some 25mm 3mm thick flat bar made into a T that holds the tube in place. Then put 1mm spacers under to help centre the rod.



The first one worked but the fish mouths are not as good as i would like, so i am off to explore new ways to get this right.


Also started making a template for the scuttle, its 10inches high and based around the Gibbs book base dimensions, though i will be making it from fibreglass.



Drivers view


Also i have placed an order for all the parts need to make the controller, so get ready for an electronics post the like of which this forum has never seen (will probably include smoke....) when i try to assemble it.

A quick post, i do have some more updates but they can wait till i advance those parts a little more. The exciting part is that i have collected more of my body work and have a paint color for the car! Just a little excited! Wahoo!!!

Nose Cone


Rear Guards


front of the car



Inside of nose cone


Entire car as its sits now... on bricks


The paint color - gunmetal

Well i thought i would add a few more details to things to the last post and since i cant put too many images in it gets another go around.

First off some electrical gear that has turned up:

Volt meter - though since i am looking at the lcd displayed version as shown in the previous post this may not be needed.


The electrical contactors - When you turn the ignition to activate the 12v circuit these switch to turn on the 144V circuit. That way you are not directly switching 144V.


A possible design for an adjustable steering column, need some more threaded bar and bolts to make it work better.


The seat back on the ground getting ready to be cut out, good thing i checked my markings just before cutting as i had some how miss measured!


The seat back clamped in place, will get some photos with the floor and seat back in - might look like a boat but its making progress!


I am set on going with Greensaver batteries - http://www.greensaver.cn/en/Product/Produc...spx?ProductID=9


Depending on how i do can package it either the 68 or 100AH versions which will mean lugging 330kg (68Ah) or 460.8 (kg) worth of batteries around.
They have peak discharge rates of 30C or up to 3000Amps... I am looking at peak of 600Amps with a custom built controller.

From finance side of things:
I have spent $1,203.84 at bunnings on this project - is there some kind of card i can apply for to get a discount now?

Its been a slow month of work on the car, busy with work and various other things.

The bottom of the chassis getting painted up


I have started making up a cad models of some of the electrical gear
100 hp @9.25" Russian made kostov 144V


The rear roll hoop and shock mounts


Started to install the thin wall mounts for the transmission tunnel drivers side. Still need to add a piece to the back to make it a T so its got abit of stiffness. The plan is to weld in steel sheet to the side of the tunnel.


Part of the steel transmission tunnel held in place, it wont be put in until i have a running drive train.


A foot well in the drivers side, though this may not be needed as i am looking getting a pedal box made up.


Next
- make up some battery box's for the back and work out how to mount the motor
- Seat back
- Order the motor
- Make the panel work

Though i have found what i will use to power the in dash display: http://www.cloudelectric.com/product_p/me-bw.htm

This continues from part 1 (too many images)

More work with the suspension
(Flat)


Down 3 degrees


Up 3 degrees


These cad models are not my own i just import some of them into solidworks, but if anyone wants them let me know.
Caterham body work:




Locost nose cone


To come:
Suspension, i am aiming to get the rear diff mounts made in coming few weeks and the trailing arms, then no reason they cant go on.
Scuttle templates
Front suspension design... need to finish this and hopefully will get somewere with the help of another member who some idea how to make things look right. I dont get how i am meant to bring srub radius from 50mm (which comes on a cortina) to 20-30mm...
Pick a battery and some making up supports
Making up a motor mount, and hopefully if my tax return is good buy the motor!

As per the title i have purchased some of the body work for the locost from a fellow Victorian based clubman builder.

I have the front cycle guards:


Waiting to pick up the nose cone and rear guards once there ready.



Started work on the interesting issue on how to attach the transmission tunnel surrounds to the tunnel, decided to weld in a couple of pieces of 3mm flat bar. 1 of shown.

Still have to figure out how to attach seat belt mounts down there...

Decided to stiffen the engine by by putting a cross member into it. I was not going to do this in order to give more depth to the engine bay to fit in more stuff but decided to just do it and go for stiffness.


Finished off grinding the old diff supports off


Tack welded in the foot well end for the passenger side


Made a CAD model of the diff mounts for the trail arms


And a flat sketch to be cut out and bent


Started doing some work on designing the scuttle, Will make a template from wood them bend a frame around that. Not sure if i will make the final face from wood or aluminum. Will cover either way with a carbon effect vinyl.


More to come in Part 2 (too many images or some such thing)

Been a little slow going the last couple of weeks. 2 reasons
1) Been away and busy
2) The motivation to go do an extra hour in the shed here and there was lagging a little.

Anyway i did get myself geed up, looked up pics of donkervoorts and saw a colour i like, its a dark grey titanium colour.

This entries adventures:

The total spent actually went backwards as sold off a few items, so am back under the $6K spend mark, wahoo! Now only if i can find a way to make this build self funding.

I messed around a little more with getting the clearance for the tunnel around the diff. Looks like a i have it, though my concern is the reinforcing vertical needed in the tunnel. Thoughts on this was to install a upside down v which keeps the same clearances and connects at the same location as the vertical did. Then install a piece of 3mm flat bar welded into place with a strip running up it to make a T and just hope that leave enough clearance. Wont know until i make trailing arms and really install the diff.


Decided to skip ahead and cut out the the floor as i needed to free up space in the shed what was being taken up 2 2.4 x 1.2m sheets of steel.

Chassis getting drawn around


The rough cut version


The back view


The front view

For those looking at wondering how will the engine fit, its going to be inside the transmission tunnel for the most part. So no need to spoil the smooth bottom! Still thinking about if i will fully seal the under diff area or not considering it will be exposed on the wheel sides anyway. Maybe a parial covering towards the sides.


I also shifted the 2 straight pieces on the rear inwards to give more room for the rear suspension brackets to fit into. (Still to be made, have a drawing but need to do some checks about roll centres etc - there will be a post RE to this coming)


Also looking at steering column methods of support, came up with this simple one, just a piece of 3mm x 25mm flat bar connected to a 25mm rectangular. This will then be welded onto the support as already construction. A 2nd L shap will be added to connect from the support to the rear mounting point. Any thoughts here?

Also looking to find out:
What is the minimum steering wheel size: 300, 330 or 350mm...
What should be stamped on the back of a wheel (as rim and tire wheel not steering) so they are ADR compliant. Mine say Made in Australia and that is all.

Interesting fact from the finance this entry:
To date i have purchased (not used!): 41 grinding disks (includes cut off, flap disks and grinding disks for a 115mm angle grinder).
Cost as of today: $5,683.39


Whats to come:
Suspension geometry
Then suspension jigs (Front top + bottom and trailing arms but probably not pan rod, just fly by feel on that 1)
Finishing the rebuild of the transmission tunnel so its all tacked in place and ready for a real test fit.

Most of the last week or so has been spent fixing or trying to fix then anyway with some rather funny (to me anyway) results.

(1) The messed up transmission tunnel

1a) the problem of the tunnel was made straight and the diff is offset, enough to really screw things up. All looks good in this pic but once you look at the wheel positioning things are really not right. I am not building a car with off centred rear wheels... you cant cover that up with a touch of paint.


1b) The part way solution, added in two pieces to open up more room in the tunnel. The lower sections inside the tunnel will be cut out after. Not sure what i am going to do with the bracing. I need to find a way to add more bracing in this area without hitting the diff but wont get that done until i make the trailing arms and attach the suspension mounts to the diff.


2) Setting up the front suspension mount, the spacing anyway. After getting a little carried away and cutting them out when i was messing around with the steering rack i needed to add these back in. I had 3 still in place and aligned and then it struck me. Since i have i 1 in place its just a case of making sure there inline. So i used a threaded bar to hold the U in place, then created a spacer template out of wood (not that brilliant on the inside cuts but i didnt need them only the outsides). Then made sure the upright was in line with the frame and bobs your uncle. That is only 1 side done, i cant move the car to get to the other with the diff in the back while i mess around with the tunnel at the same time.

2a) Test fitting the template


2b) The start of lez's template which i have not actually finished, will do so just to be sure of the spacings but i believe they are right.


Still nervous about the suspension, especially the bending. Too bad you cant buy any in Aus. Guess i dont know how hard it is till i do it.

3) footwell covers - passenger
Decided that i needed to start using up the massive sheets of steel i have in my garage so i need to cut out parts. Start with the passenger footwell as that can go in no drama's.
3a) The poorly cut out shape


3b) After going at it with a the bench grinder so its kinda to the drawing i did. I did make the rail cuts too big so i may have to start again... At least i have a $hit load of excess.


4)Collected a box of 35kg worth of fibreglass matt, from ebay for $35.
What a 35kg box of fibreglass mat looks like:


5) No pics but i found the roll hoop mounts from Gensis wont fit my chassis very well. For future reference they are around 10 x 11cm square and i need 14 x 11cm. Not sure if i will just make do and fill the rest with another piece or get some new ones cutout by someone with a laser cutter. Not an expensive mistake and i knew it could be an issue.

6) Found the wing fillers are too small as well, same as about, not an expensive mistake. Might put in a bent tube to give something for doors to attach too.

7) Cycle guards and other fibreglass parts. Looked at the VCBG website and saw that there was 3 suppliers other then whitepointer on there.
http://www.vic-clubmans.com/wiki/index.php...in.ClubmanParts

Peter Bezett
P3–7 Components

John Brotheridge
Lara, Vic

Bob Whittle
Newtown, Vic

Anyone used any of these before? Any pics?

I posted a question about getting cortina steering locks off. i found out if you cant turn your key your kinda stuffed. I got the collar off but now on the hunt for a new column when the $$'s free up from other area's. Can use the one i have now for positioning.

9) Looking at making a ride height of around 110mm (clearance from the bottom chassis rail to the ground).

This stuff is getting expensive very fast!

A cost breakdown to date into groups:
Admin - books, engineer, etc
Mechanical - engine, donor, metal, direct consumerables
Tools - both power and hand
Workshop - material to make benches, storage bins etc

Did some more work on stiffeners, added a steering column support and painted more of the chassis. Also been doing some work on the electric motor but that is over on the AEVA forums.
Also been doing alot of research into aero modding the locost to reduce drag but keep the same look.

Thoughts:
Thinner + larger wheels (lower rolling resistance)
Closer hugging and slightly modded front cycle guards (Caterham CSR)
Bring the lights in board to fit into nose cone (Donkervoort)
Seal the entire nose cone
Large angle on the windscreen or replace with aero screen
Make aero mods to the front suspension (Caterham CSR)
Make air intakes for motor/battery cooling from in front of the suspension to reduce air flow, vent out transmission tunnel (Donkervoort)
Seal the entire bottom of the car
Add doors + roof to clean up air flow around windscreen when fitted.

Welding in some more stiffening in the back of the car around the diff.


Test position for the steering column


The invisible upper suspension mount!


Painted and cleaned up TE cortina Diff


Front view of the chassis with the steering column support in place and more of the chassis painted


View of the back of the chassis


Pile of my order from Gensis:


A graph of what i have spent over time on this project:


Next step will be attempting to fit rear suspension and make jigs for the front.
Also need to get back into cad to work on the nose cone as its becoming more important to get right!

Decided to buy and then modify the front and rear cycle guards from white pointer.

Well some paint has hit the chassis as i start moving into the steel body work sections. Also been at working at making up a scuttle and nose cones in cad, pics of some my test fitting of shapes can be seen below. Scuttle is an ongoing project.

Ordered a pile of gear from gensis which will hopefully arrive early next week so i can install roll bar mounts and the rear diff.
Also ordered and large quantity of fibreglass mat to play with. Will start with some light surrounds and work my way up to the nose.

Found an interesting source of pedals: $25 each then make up a simple mount.
http://www.git.com.au/~theedge/store/category8_1.htm

Some more model batteries (cardboard box's from moving coming in handy)


No fuel tank but a battery box in its place so sealing the back end.
The base plate:


A side infill, i am already over cutting steel sheet. Keep busting jigsaw blades...


Pic of the chassis upside down, just realised i am missing a couple of reinforcing bars under the diff.


Painting, done using a simple roller. Decided its a waste using a spray can on a 25mm wide chassis frame and you dont see it anyway.



Work on the nose cone:
Standard nose cone:


Donkervoort styled, looks like i messed up the dimensions so will re do in the next week.


Progress is slow and time consuming.